The second leg of our Saturday tour took us west to the newly-opened Fullsteam Brewery tasting room, which proved to be unique in this reviewer's experience, not including their off-the-wall beers they offer. I had followed Fullsteam's buildout for some time online and tasted its IPA, Sweet Potato, and Hickory Stout at other venues, but the tasting room has only been open for two weeks. When one enters the establishment, the bar/tasting area is on the left and is reminiscent of your standard neighborhood bar, albeit rather plain and sterile-looking. However, their "social area" is very laid-back and interesting - how else would you describe a large room whose contents are a ping-pong table, a multi-level deck/stage, a 1980s-era bowling arcade game, a Baywatch pinball machine, multiple picnic tables and a kiddie-level analog mechanical bull? The beer, though, should play the pivotal role, and Fullsteam has a different, to say the least, approach to that.The folks at Fullsteam tout their "plow-to-pint" philosophy for brewing beer - using local ingredients to create beers that you can't taste anywhere else. Their signature brew, the Hickory Smoked Porter, is a good example. Reportedly brewed to accompany North Carolina's beloved smoke-infused barbecue, the Porter is quite a beverage. At first taste, you are overwhelmed with the fact that your throat now tastes like it does after standing next to a barbecue pit or pig cooker for five hours - which sounds great if you've actually done this and the delectable swine is in the offing soon - but, to be honest, is a bit too much after about 1/2 pint and no 'cue is immediately forthcoming. I have to give it to the Fullsteam folks in that they fulfilled their mission here, and the beer is of good quality, but it's just too much for me personally. It may be good with some good Barbecue Joint pork, but we'll have to wait to try that combo.
Fullsteam's other brews are acceptable (IPA, Carver Ale) and their setup is great - particularly in the fall when the open-air room is 70 degrees or so. While their beer is an acquired taste (to be fair, they know this and state it plainly), their localvore leanings are admirable and their building is definitely worth a visit or two.


