Come Fly With Me...to Fuquay!: Aviator Brewing

Yes, Fuquay.  Varina, that is, with the hyphen.  Can you really fly to Fuquay-Varina?  A question for ambitious Expedia searchers or well-to-do folks who circle their Cessnas, decide to skip RDU and are searching for a fresh North Carolina brew without breaching the I-440 chastity belt(line).  If you can find Broad Street in Fuquay - hint: it's just off Hwy. 55, like everything else in the South-of- Raleigh Central Planning District (SORCPD) - you will find an original, well-executed brewery and taphouse with quaint surroundings and quality brews.

Admittedly, the lovely wife and I did not visit the actual Aviator brewery - we only visited the taphouse as the brewery tour was not available and the Smokehouse restaurant was way across the street (it was pouring rain) - but the taphouse allowed a full appreciation of Aviator's varied and satisfying beers.

Six beers on tap plus a guest "beer" (today it was a local cider) - a good variety; we have found that trying to maintain more than six disinct draughts at one time is beyond the capabilities of even the largest craft breweries (see earlier post on Sweetwater Brewing).  The best compliment to Aviator is that most merit comment here, though with varied reviews.   

You can sample the Hot Rod Red at many a Triangle location - it's the most oft-found Aviator brew - a capable Irish red with a slightly hoppy finish.  It seems to be their flagship brew, but I think it belies the brewery's other offerings.  The lovely wife, a disciple of Hoegaarden, Allagash White and Lonerider's Shotgun Betty, was not overwhelmed with the somewhat thin flavor of the Mad Beach wheat ale - it was much hoppier than most "summer" brews and came across as more of a medium-depth pilsner than a true wheat beer.  That is not to say, however, that it wouldn't be a well-received draught on a hot summer afternoon.

Is imitation a truly honorable goal of a craft brewery?  If you believe so, Aviator should be at the top of your list for accomplished breweries in North Carolina, largely on the backs of their two top-flight brews, Steamhead and Hog Wild IPA.  The informative bartender described Steamhead as similar to San Francisco's Anchor Steam (creative branding, Aviator), and he was right on. Smooth with a bit of a smoky ending, Steamhead is very drinkable with enough heft to satisfy.

Those of us who worship at the Dogfish 60/90 Minute IPA altar would do well to traipse to Fuquay for the Hog Wild IPA.  Most local breweries offer IPAs of differing hoppiness, from Carolina Brewery's smooth brew to Lonerider's late, great Graverobber Black IPA.  However, the Hog almost fully captures the floral crispness of the 60 Minute (it doesn't have the high-gravity bite of the 90) - emphasis on crisp, because I think that's the essence of a quality IPA, not a lip-puckering deluge of hops.  There are IPA enthusiasts out there who say "the more hops, the better", but I think that's a cop-out (Miller Lite says its beer is "triple-hopped", so if you want to hitch your ride to that cart, be my guest).  The Hog has a citrus aroma (again, a good sign) and the taste ends on the tongue quickly - no sour aftertaste.  Yum.

I reserve my last comments for what is truly an insidious, dishonorable attempt by Aviator to take advantage of the fair maidens of this south-Triangle village.  After only one visit I uncovered the devious plot - well planned, yes, and expensive, but clearly designed to result in a bar full of pliant, happy females open to suggestion.  Here's what I uncovered; in case I disappear after this post, you'll know where to look:

1)  Aviator knows that a majority (not all) of female beer drinkers will look first for a summer/wheat/Hefeweizen brew to enjoy.
2)  Aviator intentionally brewed its Mad Wheat to be somewhat hoppy - not fruity, or, not a Blue Moon replacement...therefore directing the fairer sex to other options.
3)  Aviator created the Devil's Tramping Ground Tripel.  Egads!  The beer is a fantastic, smooth Tripel that has the full flavor of Belgian Tripels but without the astringent aftertaste often ascribed to Belgian-style brews.  It even has hints of fruitiness but lacks sweetness.  Sounds great, right?  So what's the big deal?  IT'S 9.2% ALCOHOL!  What seemed to be otherwise upstanding young (and not-so-young) female Fuquay-Varinans were quaffing the Tripels during our visit like they were Michelob Ultras (with lime).  Aviator has shrewdly nudged its lady customers from a 4.8% summer wheat to a 9.2% Belgian powerhouse.  Ladies' night indeed!